How to Stop Ants from Getting Into a Beehive

Ants in a beehive are a real problem—they steal honey, eat brood, and stress the colony. The good news is that stopping them doesn’t require expensive gear or complicated strategies. A few practical barriers and habitat changes will solve most ant invasions.

Hive Stand Barriers That Work

The most reliable defense is physical separation. Ants travel on the ground and climb up hive stands, so anything that blocks their path works well.

Legs in water is the simplest method. Use a hive stand with four legs and place each leg in a shallow container—a coffee can, plastic tub, or even a mason jar works fine. Fill the container with water about 2–3 inches deep. Ants cannot cross water, and the barrier is nearly foolproof. The downside: you need to refill the water every week or two, especially in dry weather or if debris falls in. This method costs almost nothing and requires no special equipment.

Concrete blocks or pavers under each leg create a moat space. Set your hive stand legs on blocks, then fill the gap around each leg with water in a shallow pan. This gives you more water surface area and makes refilling easier. Some beekeepers use this as a permanent setup by creating a small concrete pad with recessed areas for water containers.

Standalone ant barriers (sometimes called “ant traps” or “leg stands”) are metal or plastic rings that screw onto hive stand legs. They hold water in a contained ring around the leg. These cost $15–40 per set and are convenient if you have multiple hives, but they’re not necessary for a beginner with one or two colonies. A water-filled can works just as well.

Important detail: check your water barriers weekly. Algae grows in standing water, mosquitoes breed in it, and debris clogs it. In heavy rain, water may overflow and lose its effectiveness. In drought, it evaporates fast. This isn’t a set-it-and-forget-it solution—it requires regular attention.

Ant Moat and Grease Methods

An ant moat is a water barrier designed specifically for beehives. You can buy one, or make one cheaply.

Commercial ant moats are plastic or metal trays that fit under the hive stand or around the legs. They’re designed to hold water and have a lip that keeps the hive from tipping. Prices range from $20–50. They work well, but they’re optional for beginners—the water-in-cans method is equally effective.

DIY moat: use a large, shallow plastic tray (like a concrete mixing pan or a large plant saucer). Set your hive stand inside it and fill with water. This works perfectly and costs $5–10. The only catch is that the tray must be large enough that ants can’t bridge the gap by stacking debris.

Grease barriers are an older method that still works. Coat the hive stand legs with a sticky, slippery substance that ants cannot cross. Tanglefoot (a commercial sticky barrier) or petroleum jelly can be applied directly to the legs. Ants get stuck and cannot climb further. The problem: grease gets dirty, collects debris, and must be reapplied every few weeks. It’s messier than water and less reliable in warm weather when grease softens. Many beekeepers have moved away from this method in favor of water barriers, but it’s an option if water isn’t practical for your setup.

Combination approach: some beekeepers use both water and a small amount of grease. A thin coat of petroleum jelly on the leg, just above the water line, creates a double barrier. This is overkill for most situations but works if ants are particularly persistent.

Keeping the Hive Area Clear of Attractants

Ants are attracted to food and water. Reduce these, and fewer ants will be interested in your hive.

Remove nearby food sources. Don’t store honey supers, pollen, or bee equipment near the hive where it might spill. Clean up dead bees and debris around the hive. If you feed your bees sugar water or pollen patties, ants will swarm to it—place feeders inside the hive (in the brood box, the lower box where the queen lays eggs and the colony raises young) rather than outside, so only your bees can access them. If you must use an external feeder, move it as far from the hive as practical.

Mow and clear vegetation around the hive stand. Tall grass and weeds give ants shelter and create highways to the hive. Keep a 3–4 foot radius around each stand clear and mowed. This also helps with ventilation and pest monitoring.

Eliminate standing water except for your ant moat. Ants need water; if there are puddles or wet soil near the hive, ants will nest there. Ensure drainage is good and the ground slopes away from the stand.

Don’t leave open hive components on the ground. Ants will nest in empty boxes or frames stored nearby. Store all equipment in sealed containers or indoors.

What Not to Use Near the Hive

Some common ant deterrents are dangerous or ineffective around bees.

Pesticides and insecticides kill ants but also kill bees. Never spray anything toxic near an active hive. This includes ant baits and commercial ant killers. Bees forage across a wide area; poison near the hive can contaminate flowers and water sources they visit.

Cinnamon, coffee grounds, and essential oils are popular “natural” ant repellents but don’t work reliably against determined ants. They’re also unnecessary when physical barriers are so effective. Skip them.

Mothballs and naphthalene are sometimes suggested but are toxic and ineffective. Don’t use them.

Stick to water barriers, cleanliness, and habitat management—they’re safe, cheap, and proven.